The Aryani, which sits huddled among swaying coconut trees on Terengganu's sandy coastline, is a gem of a resort. LEONG SIOK HUI came away rejuvenated after a three-day stay.

One of the 20 villas found here. The urn for washing feet is the bottom right corner.

Pictures by Azlina Abdullah

The Aryani
Jalan Rhu Tapai, Merang, Setiu, Terengganu
(09) 653 2111, Fax: (09) 653 1007
Website:
www.thearyani.com
E-mail:
aryani@tm.net.my

Rooms cost between RM560 nett and RM1,055 nett a night.

Leaning back on the rattan chair, I listened to the melodious song of chirping birds and the whirring fan in the middle of a lazy Sunday afternoon. A light breeze caressed my face and fluttered the leaves on the palm trees. I revelled in the moment – the joy of doing nothing at all.

The Star photographer Azlina Abdullah and I were guests of the Aryani Resort in Terengganu. Time seemed to be at a standstill the moment we arrived at the resort, which is about 20 minutes' drive from the airport.

Smiling resort staff clad in casual baju Melayu greeted us at the lobby and ushered us to the reception desk. Another staff member brought out cold towels, piping hot keropok lekor (the east coast's famous fish "cracker") and refreshing lemongrass tea. Everyone seemed to go about their tasks quietly. Even the few guests that we spotted spoke in hushed tones, blending in with the resort's tranquil ambience.

Serenity aside, Aryani is also known as a "cultural" retreat with its interesting architecture, setting and décor that reflects the rich Terengganu heritage.

Sprawled across four hectares of land interspersed with coastal flora and fringed by a white sandy beach on the Merang coast, Aryani has 20 private villas (17 open to guests) scattered around a lovely tropical landscaped garden.

Designed and owned by architect Raja Datuk Kamarul Bahrin Shah, the resort's layout is based on the concept of a Malay settlement. A two-storey main building, housing the reception area and a restaurant on the first floor and a meeting room, gift shop, fine-dining room cum library on the ground floor, represents the Sultan's istana (palace) or kota (fortress).

Raja Datuk Kamarul Bahrin Shah designed and owns Aryani.

The "palace" overlooks the central courtyard below where a shimmering blue, rectangular pool is framed by a few wakaf (pavilions), a lush garden of coconut trees, bougainvilleas, hyacinths and lotus ponds. The courtyard resembles an ancient village square. Villas scattered on the "palace" grounds are reminiscent of individual homes in the village.

After a quick check-in, we were escorted to our villas. A stone walkway meandering past guava and cashew trees and leafy palms takes guests to their abode, encircled by a low stonewall with a private garden and an elaborate gateway.

The three-tiered roof of the gateway and finials on the roof are typical of old Thai houses. The villa's architecture with its steep, tiered roofs covered in singhorra tiles is characteristic of the traditional architecture of Kelantan, Terengganu, Cambodia and Thailand.

A singhorra tile is rhomboid-shaped and made from clay. It is named after the town of Songkhla in Southern Thailand. It is also produced locally in the east coast. Water- and fireproof, it is more durable than thatch.

Each villa comes with a spacious veranda with a rattan sofa for guests to chill out on and enjoy the garden. At the bottom of the steps leading to the doorway is a water vessel made of clay called a tempayan that comes with a gayong (water scoop) made from a coconut shell with a wooden handle. The practice of washing your feet before entering the house is a Malay custom.

Wide, sliding glass doors open up to a spacious room with a comfy-looking, 2.2m custom-made bed larger than a regular king-size bed.

Large windows with sliding wood panels let the sun in. The adjoining bathroom with separate shower and toilet is spacious enough for two. Each villa is equipped with an IDD telephone, TV, mini bar, air-conditioner, fan, tea- and coffee-making pot. Decorative wall panels of intricate woodcarvings, hand-woven mengkuang tissue box, bedroom slippers and mats, brass tepak sirih (betel-nut container) and printed batik adorn the room.

The best treat for guests is the outdoor sunken bath (available in all villas) fenced in by a stonewall for privacy. I made a mental note to soak in the bath surrounded by shady palms and gaze at the stars that night.

On our first day, resort manager, Yusoff Zaki, Azlina and I ambled around the resort. Yusoff said only one tree was felled during the resort's construction to preserve the area's natural landscape. Herbs were planted in the garden like lemongrass to ward off mosquitoes and pandanus which deters cockroaches. Frangipani and jasmine blooms perfume the air.

Heritage treasures

Aryani's most prized treasures are the two century-old traditional Malay houses that stand grandly on the resort's grounds. As a conservationist and supporter of vernacular architecture, Raja Bahrin admits old buildings are expensive to maintain.

Ahhh... Can you picture yourself here?

"But, if you have enough conviction and belief in your own heritage, you should adopt creative thinking to preserve it," he said during an interview in his office in Kuala Terengganu.

The architect dismantled part of a 19th century Terengganu royal palace, moved the building to his land, and coverted it into a guest house and spa.

Heritage Suite is a regal-looking Malay house on stilts about 3.6m high (for protection from flood, wild animals and enemy attack in the olden days). There is a two-tiered platform leading to the rumah ibu (main house). Rotting wood on the lower-level pelantar (platform) was replaced with stone tiles, allowing guests to sunbathe or chill out under sunny skies.

On the second tier, a covered veranda with a cosy daybed lets guests lounge around and enjoy the sweeping vista of South China Sea's sparkling blue sea.

Walls, typical of traditional Terengganu Malay houses, are made of timber panels slotted into grooved frames, and the steeply pitched roof is covered in singhorra tiles. The main house comprises a living room and bedroom while the rumah dapur (kitchen) in the back has been converted into a bathroom with a bathtub.

Guests get to experience life in the olden days when they stay in the Heritage suite, Yusoff explained. Ornate woodcarvings with the popular awan larat design on panels above windows allow the rays of the sun to filter into the house and for air to circulate and cool the interior. The living room made of cengal wood is decorated with antique furniture and local crafts like wayang kulit dolls and an antique kukur kelapa (coconut grater). A king-size bed draped over with gold songket and a closet with elaborate carvings, spice up an otherwise dark, woody interior. Newly weds love to stay in the Heritage Suite.

The century-old building housing the spa offers the ultimate indulgence in a retreat. Guests are pampered by the whole works – hair treatment, body scrub, facial and massage.

The spa uses local herbs, spices, flowers and fruits like turmeric, ginger, kaffir-lime leaves, candlenut, jasmine, hibiscus and papaya for the treatment. The therapists blend rambai (local fruit) flowers, turmeric and rice to make a body scrub, or tapioca flour and herbs to make a body masque.

On our second day, after a hectic day in Kuala Terengganu, Azlina and I wound down with a traditional Malay massage given by a makcik using homemade coconut oil from a nearby village. That night, I sank into a deep reverie as soon as my head hit the pillow.

The resort spa is housed in this preserved house.

Due to our tight schedule, we didn't have ample time to loll about the resort during the day. But it was delightful to find a teatime treat of local delicacies left in our villa every afternoon.

In the evening, we stuffed ourselves with scrumptious meals at Serai restaurant as the local chef whipped up creative Western-style dishes and Terengganu specialties like the famous nasi dagang – glutinous and long-grain rice mixed with coconut milk and spices, and served with tongkol (tuna) curry.

On some nights, a group of local musicians sat in the wakaf and played soothing, gamelan music (a classical court orchestra of Terengganu) as guests dined in the restaurant to the warm glow of flickering candles.

In the mornings, I laced up my running shoes for a jog on the almost deserted beach and watched locals fish and the kids frolic in the blue water.

At Aryani's Pulau Beach Club – a rustic wooden shack with a snack bar by the beach – guests can order sandwiches and refreshing ice lemon tea, plonk onto a deck chair and be lulled by the sound of the sea or get lost in a good book.

For guests who are able to tear themselves away from the peace and tranquillity, they can hire a cab, cruise the villages or head to bustling Kuala Terengganu town's Pasar Payang. Aryani's staff can also help arrange a golf outing to nearby courses if the urge grabs you.

But, with the little time we had, I was content to just indulge in Aryani's sweet languor.

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