Lamb cutlets with Dijon Mustard Sauce.

When Chambers Cafe & Bistro opened for business in Seremban four years ago, the owners decided a catchy name would draw in customers.

All sorts of names were bandied about until they settled for Chandran and Members, or Chambers in short, a moniker picked to reflect the family-run business.

Chambers, however, proved to be a fitting name, as the establishment is located within close proximity of the Seremban Court Complex.

Gita Chandran, who started the business with her husband in 2008, said what began as a retirement project for her husband quickly evolved into a restaurant where they could share their love of food and entertaining.

The mother of four who teaches accountancy at a private college in Seremban supervises the daily operations at the cafe after work each day.

“In the beginning, running the business was quite challenging but it has since turned into a labour of love.

“When we first started, I didn’t do much of the cooking but now I cook almost every night and yet, it doesn’t tire me out.

“The entire family is involved, my children help whenever they can and we experiment with dishes that we want to feature on the menu,” she said.

Gita and her husband enlisted help from hotel chefs to teach them the finer points of Western cuisine and also borrowed recipes from magazines and the Internet.

Some of the dishes on the menu today such as Chicken Golinha Africana, Lamb Cutlets with Dijon Mustard and Salmon with Watercress Sauce are the result of those early experimentations.

Chicken Golinha Africana is an African-inspired dish made with a secret blend of herbs and spices tailored to suit local tastebuds.

Chamber's combo special (bottom) and Chicken Golinha Africana.

This dish is chicken chop with a spicy, exotic twist while the lamb cutlets are juicy lamb chops grilled with herbs, basted with dijon mustard, and baked with a layer of mozzarella cheese.

Gita said these items and their home-made soups and burgers were popular with diners at the cafe.

“We try to use only grass-fed meat from New Zealand for our lamb and beef dishes and Norwegian salmon when we can.

“Quality ingredients are key and result in more flavoursome dishes,” she said.

The menu at the cafe may not be as extensive as other outlets offering Western cuisine but you can be assured of a hearty meal lovingly prepared by Gita or her sous chef R. Shashi.

The menu includes salads, soups and mains, priced from RM6.90++ (for a salad) to RM45.90 for a T-bone steak.

Desserts include Mango Pudding and Chocolate Molten Lava Cake.

The cafe can accomodate up to 70 diners comfortably and reservations can be made for special events such as birthday dinners.

This is the writer’s observation and not an endorsement by allMalaysia.info.

Map: Chambers Cafe & Bistro

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1. A Royale setting

Wani Muthiah was walking to the night market in Teluk Pulai, Klang, near her house when she came upon a mangy-looking Doberman tottering in the middle of the street.

It was suffering from a skin disorder and reeked of rot. Saddest of all, it was clearly someone’s pet, now dumped because of its condition.

Elsewhere in the Klang Valley, canine rescuers Joanne Low and Leigh Chen, teachers in their late 30s, were tipped off by a friend that the dog she had been feeding had been badly mistreated by dog catchers.

Look into my eyes: One of the many puppies looking for a home at a pet donation drive.

To get the animal out of a vacant house where it had sought shelter, two catchers had pushed it through the gate while two others pulled on a band they had looped around its head.

It is alarming situations like these that have kept Malaysian Dogs Deserve Better (MDDB) founder Wani riled for a long time.

Fortunately, her team was able to rescue the Doberman and the stray, and saw to their medical treatment, recovery and adoption by kind citizens in Kuala Lumpur.

Canines deserve better

In 2008, Wani initiated the MDDB project under non-governmental organisation Community Development and Integration Initiative (CDII), in which she is co-director with several of her closest friends.

The 'Do Good. Volunteer.' campaign is an initiative by The Star, in partnership with Leaderonomics, to help raise awareness of and connect readers with worthy causes that need volunteers.

MDDB propagates the trap-neuter-release-manage (TNRM) system of stray management as well as rescues and rehomes dogs and puppies that are in need.

Although there are other similar organisations that fight for animal justice, Wani specifies that MDDB’s main agenda is to give canines a second chance in life regardless of how bad their condition during rescue.

She speaks wryly and matter-of-factly, a disposition that tends to belie the depth of conviction she feels in her heart; however, it is her perseverance and enduring journey that says it all.

“If you can harm an animal, you’d easily hurt a human,” says the 49-year-old, who is married and works full-time as a journalist at national daily The Star.

Working with a committed team of 11 volunteers, she leads an ongoing mission to rescue injured dogs from the streets of the Klang Valley.

“MDDB volunteers live in different parts of Selangor and Kuala Lumpur and we generally monitor the area around our residential areas for needy and destitute canines,’’ she said, adding that they also act based on tip-offs from members of the public.

The dogs she rescues with her team are sent to veterinary clinics where they are checked for potential infections and diseases before being quarantined.

Adopt, don’t buy

The rescued dogs are held in the homes of volunteers as well as the MDDB halfway home in Klang before being put up for adoption on a regular basis.

Pet donation drives are conducted on the second Sunday of every month at The Summit shopping centre in USJ, Subang Jaya, and at Jaya One shopping centre at Section 13, Petaling Jaya, on the third Sunday of every month, typically from 11am onwards.

Wani Muthiah (left) works long and hard for the better treatment of dogs.

Wani is against the selling of animals in pet stores and speaks strongly against “unscrupulous animal breeders who care more for their profits than the lives of the dogs”.

“Besides, why buy when you can adopt?” she questions. “Mongrels are beautiful, intelligent dogs.”

She remembers her first pet, a little brown puppy from a secondary jungle near her home in Pengkalan Chepa, Kelantan, when she was four years old.

Wani, the second of six children, was raised by her paternal grandparents in Kota Baru, whilst her parents and siblings lived in Kuala Lumpur.

Her father, who was a warrant officer in the Royal Malaysian Air Force, was one of the country’s pioneer air defence and traffic control personnel and worked in various air bases throughout his tenure.

“My grandparents’ love for dogs grew on me. We had everything – birds, cats, dogs – but dogs have always had a special place in my heart,” Wani says.

“I cannot explain why I love dogs more than other animals but I believe that I was born with it because even as a child, I never feared even hostile dogs and wanted to take them all in my arms and give them a big hug,’’ she says, adding that she has been bitten many times.

Wani has four pet dogs that had been rescued off the streets.

Wani is also critical of pet owners who refuse to neuter their pets.

“We are feeling the adverse effects of a very bad stray management system. Stray births are littering the streets, which also heightens the level of animal cruelty,” she explains.

“But we are thankful for kind citizens who make a difference by adopting strays.”

Immersed in a worthy cause

“When I see stray dogs on the street, it moves me to take action,” intimates 47-year-old Irene Low, a committed animal rescue volunteer who has been involved in the cause for nearly five years.

Several years ago, a friend of hers had tried to breed a pair of Schnauzers but failed.

“She gave up quickly and gave me the dogs. I’d never had the chance to rear dogs in the past as I lived in apartments, but since I’d just moved into landed property at that time, I took them in,” she explains.

Nine-year-old Chua Suk Hui and her mother Yeo Mei Ling are excited about taking home this puppy which they adopted at a recent Malaysian Dogs Deserve Better pet donation drive.

She became acquainted with other volunteers in 2008, at a protest rally against a council-organised campaign in Selayang, Selangor.

“Residents in that area were offered about RM50 to hand in every stray dog they caught,” she remembers.

Two Sundays a month and about 20 hours a week go into the independent financial advisor’s volunteer work at MDDB.

With a smile, she says: “These (animals) are my children. Our work here can be very rewarding when we successfully ‘TNRM a stray’, or find it a good adopter.”

Jessica Lee, 51, who successfully rescued and rehomed two puppies near her residence recently, says: “I can’t bring myself to look away and not help when I see animals in trouble. It’s exhausting to foster young pups, but it’s also fulfilling to see them taken in by good people.”

As the housewife is still grieving over the loss of her pet dog of 10 years and can’t bring herself to take in another for now, fostering is a good way for her to serve.

While it seems like Wani and the other volunteers have time for little else than a demanding job and championing canine welfare, she simply says: “Well, once you’re in, you’re in for the long haul.”

Wani is well aware that the battle is far from over, and that her vocal intolerance of injustice towards dogs has made her “unpopular with certain quarters”.

“I have effectively ruined my reputation. Never have I had so many enemies in my life,” she says dryly.

Detractors, mostly those who strongly believe that street dogs should be captured and euthanised, accuse Wani of hypocrisy (for not being vegan), pocketing the organisation’s funds and other “unfounded allegations”.

These challenges don’t faze the brazen journalist, who credits her journalistic experience for the avenue and ability to “look at a situation with a different perspective”.

MDDB volunteers Irene Low (left) and Jessica Lee devote a lot of time to rescuing and rehoming strays.

“I expected such allegations from the start. That’s why the MDDB project falls under CDII, which is registered as a company limited by guarantee.

“All funds go into the CDII account, where we are stringently audited and accountable annually, and slapped with fines even if we are just slightly late in handing in our accounts.

“There is nothing I’ve said against anyone without proof,” she says boldly.

However, Wani is warmed by the strong ties that unite the MDDB team.

“My cause has also earned me a host of loyal friends who have been with me right from the start of this cause – introducing canine advocacy in Malaysia,” Wani explains.

“I have taken many risks and I hope others will follow suit and step up boldly. The worst thing that has happened so far is being criticised by detractors, but hey, I’m not here to win a popularity contest.”

“As long as we don’t fabricate allegations and we provide evidence to what we say, believe me, our authorities will understand and acknowledge the vagaries.”

Legal action against animal abusers, professionalism in local councils’ treatment towards captured canines and more room for canine rights in Malaysia are the key changes that Wani is fighting for.

“Once you’re in a cause like this, there’s no getting out. Although I have not had a break all these years, I must see change. Before I throw in the towel, I am determined to see canines bring treated decently in this country,” she says firmly.

The MDDB is constantly in need of volunteers and financial support for veterinary treatment and food. To contribute by volunteering your services or donating money, e-mail malaysiandogsderservebetter1@gmail.com. Alternatively, call Wani at 019-357 6477, Irene Low (Chinese-speaking) at 017-208 1844 or Myers Shane at 012-722 5079. For more information, visit www.malaysiandogsdeservebetter.blogspot.com.

To know more about the ‘Do Good. Volunteer.’  initiative, please visit dogoodvolunteer.com, as well as on Facebook and Twitter.

Horror on the streets

Irresponsible owners who allow their dogs to roam about unsupervised make the animals easy targets of local council dog catching units that set out to capture and subsequently euthanise them.

“Dogs, no matter how ill or injured, should never be euthanised, let alone a perfectly healthy one. I’ve had complaints from people whose pets were captured and euthanised by the local council!” Community Development and Integration Initiative (CDII) co-director Wani Muthiah says.

The spartan quadrant at one of the local council pounds where captured dogs are housed until the vet arrives, which may take several days. Until then, the animals live in utter filth and are usually deprived of food and water.

“The local council pounds are very, very sad places,” she says, pulling out a picture folder displaying the dozens of dogs she had come across in the last four years.

“I wasn’t fully aware of the atrocities that were happening. I am, now.”

She remembers her first visit to some of the local council pounds in Selangor with anger and disgust.

“The dogs did not have food or water and many starved to death in the spartan quadrants. It would be days before the vet arrived and until then, the dogs had to live in such inhumane conditions,” Wani says, holding up photographs of miserable-looking dogs, starved and stricken with fear, in ill-managed confinements at the pound.

“It was only after we exposed the awful circumstances that we started seeing improvement in the pounds. We know for a fact that one of the pounds has now allocated a budget to buy kibble for the dogs,” she adds.

However, the battle isn’t over.

Wani says rescuers like her are very concerned with the private “dog-catching” companies that are hired to do the dirty job.

“It’s very disturbing that these companies don’t have a proper shelter for the dogs. Instead, they are kept in the truck for days until they are put down,” she says angrily.

Wani also lashes out at regulation governing pet shops and backyard breeders in Malaysia, in view of the recent death of 74-year-old Yip Sun Wah, who was mauled by a Miniature Bull Terrier during his morning walk near his house in Subang Jaya.

“For a dog to have attacked a person, there has to be a perfectly logical explanation. What was its upbringing like? As a pup, was it locked up for months without socialisation? Was it confined in the pet shop for a long time? These are crucial questions that need answers now,” she says

It is very unfortunate that accidents like this happen, but it is a reminder that humans have a crucial role when it comes to breeding and keeping dogs.

No dog is a natural born killer, Wani asserts. “And a well-trained dog wouldn’t attack without cause.”

Incompatible breeding between species and inbreeding tend to lead to temperament issues in canines, and animal rights groups suspect that the Bull Terrier is the likely outcome of unscrupulous backyard breeding.

Rescued and restored

Derene Lee with her rescued dog Mr Gwing.

Student Derene Lee was volunteering at canine welfare organisation Malaysian Dogs Deserve Better (MDDB) during her semester break when she saw a deformed white-brown mongrel named Mr Gwing.

“Another volunteer had found the three and a half-month-old pup at a wet market in Semenyih, Selangor. It was lost, in bad condition and aggressive,” says Lee, 25, a contemporary music student at UCSI University in Kuala Lumpur.

Small, malnourished and with deformed legs, Mr Gwing was all head and as odd-looking as could be.

A quick visit to the vet confirmed that the deformity was congenital, but with proper care and love, it could still lead a good life.

Lee decided to take it home and with the help of her businessman father – and thick, padded gloves – they managed to tame Mr Gwing within a week. In the months that followed, they trained him to move around easily.

“It is people like them who allow us to continue what we do,” says MDDB founder Wani Muthiah gratefully.

At the MDDB pet adoption drive early last month at The Summit, Subang Jaya, dozens of families showed up with children who were thrilled at the idea of a new pet.

All they needed to do was choose a pup, fill up a form and pass an eligibility interview with the organisation before taking the animal home.

Housewife Kamala Devi Sasiatharan, 45, had shown up with her little girl Lekishia, eight, to make a cash contribution to MDDB.

“I fully support animal causes and contribute money almost every month. I found out about this drive in the local paper and told Lekishia I’d bring her to see the puppies,” Kamala says.

Wani explains that the funds go into paying for MDDB’s halfway home’s rental, utilities, food and other costs, which come up to about RM4,250 a month.

And that’s before factoring in treatment fees.

The halfway home has three paid employees who clean and cook at the centre on a daily basis.

“Anyone can contact us to adopt directly from the halfway home, or at the bimonthly adoption drives, which we normally hold at shopping malls,” Wani says. – Stories by CHERYL POO

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When in Taman Negara: There are many do’s and don’ts while exploring the jungle. One thing is for sure, the Canopy Walk is a must-do. — Photos by Christina Chin

When we, three city slickers, attempted to be Janes of the Jungle for a week at Taman Negara, we weren’t sure what to expect.

Yes, everyone who’s friends with Google knows that Taman Negara is the country’s largest national park and at the heart of Peninsular Malaysia, covering some 434,300ha of primary virgin forest stretching across the states of Pahang, Kelantan and Terengganu.

But what the Internet doesn’t tell you is how frighteningly insignificant the dense, virtually impenetrable forest, makes you feel. Dwarfed by the towering trees in the 130-million-year-old jungle, my friends and I ventured forth with romanticised visions of a Rudyard Kipling tale coming to life.

We were excited by the prospect of encountering majestic elephants, roaring tigers and their other endangered buddies. Though we did see two friendly tapirs (they come for nightly feeding at the resort), wild boars, snakes and deers, the closest we came to an elephant was stumbling upon its tracks in the muddy ground.

Apparently, we nearly crossed paths with a sun bear but, alas, were not destined to meet.

Taman Negara is a birdwatcher’s haven but not being much of a fan of our feathered friends, we came sans binoculars.

Besides the animals, what else does Taman Negara have to offer?

A whole new world – as Disney’s Aladdin and Princess Jasmine sang. While animal sightings are a highlight, they aren’t guaranteed. So instead of obsessing over what you could see and missing out on what’s actually there, why not just enjoy the diverse flora and different shades of emerald green leaves swaying in the wind? The sight of mighty tree trunks that reach effortlessly to the heavens itself is awe-inspiring.

There are some 10,000 species of flora and fauna in Taman Negara. The insects, ants and termites are huge – and apparently some are quite nutritious (a fellow hiker who nibbled on the abdomen of a huge ant, described it as a strong, lemony protein boost.

A leech looking for its prey.

Even breathing in the virgin jungle is an invigorating experience – the air is crisp throughout the day and, as cliched as it may sound, really makes you feel alive.

While we didn’t attempt to scale Gunung Tahan – the highest peak in the peninsula – we did sign up for a 16km hike that took us into the inner jungle. The two-day hike included spending the night in Gua Kepayang Besar.

On a dry day, the trek is relatively easy but when we went, it was a mud fest.

It was a struggle to keep on our feet when lugging bottles of water and an overnight bag over mushy, shin-deep mud.

Frustration set in when our shoes kept getting stuck in the soft ground. Leeches hell-bent on literally sucking the life out of us throughout the trail didn’t help.

A glimpse of Kuala Tembeling Jetty, where a three-hour boat ride is an adventure in itself as you cruise along the yellow 'teh tarik' river.

But sleeping in a cave is definitely worth the effort – even if your lavatory is just a small sandy patch a few meters away from where you sleep.

Gua Kepayang Besar is big, as the name suggests, and can accommodate some 300 hikers at any given time. Porcupines come in for a peep at night, and at dawn, bats swoop home, indicating that it’s time for their human guests to take leave.

After the hike, we took an hour-and-a-half boat-ride back to Kuala Tahan.

En route, river rapid shooting and rafting promised a wet and wild adventure as the boat navigated through the seven rapids of Sungai Tembeling.

The Orang Asli village is an added treat.

A quick stop at the Orang Asli village can be arranged. The park is home to the nomadic Batek people, one of Malaysia’s aboriginal tribes. According to our friendly guide Ajai, there are several Batek villages in the park.

They move everytime there’s a death in the village.

“The headman and another villager will take the body and leave it in a tree for a week or two before returning to the secret location.

“If the body has not fallen down from the tree, it is a good omen,” he said.

The night walk on a specially constructed platform offered us a glimpse of creatures like the scorpion, tree frogs, spiders and serpents. Unlike the inner jungle trek, the night walk was a leisurely stroll.

Like the night walk, the night safari through the palm oil plantation that bordered the jungle was among the least strenuous activities there. The best seat on the four-wheel-drive was definitely on the roof where four, including the guide, could enjoy a nice cool ride.

Oh, and the canopy walk is a must-do.

The 45m-high walkway on the top layer of the forest’s vegetation, is 510m long.

If you don’t have a fear of heights and is not too busy hanging on for dear life, like yours truly, you’ll enjoy the world’s longest hanging bridge canopy walkway for the magnificent bird’s eye view of the plants (and sometimes animals) below.

Another noteworthy attraction is Lata Berkoh, where cascading waterfalls make for a nice picnic spot and swim. The river flows from Gunung Tahan. On the boat ride and guided trek to Gua Telingga, visitors can see limestone outcrops, termite colonies, bats and snake racers.

While some have hailed this as the best activity in the park, we had to give it a miss.

The concrete jungle beckoned.

Cooling down in the river before lunch, is a definite reminisce of the good ol’ kampung days.

The best time to visit the park is during the dry season from February to September. But even then, this being a hutan hujan khatulistiwa, rain is always a possibility. The peak tourist season is from April to August.

Now, some cardinal rules before you (literally) “go green” – travel light, invest in a good pair of trekking shoes, pack a flashlight, insect repellent, rain coat, cash (there are no ATM machines but many activities to entice) and, most importantly of all, Minyak Cap Kapak (medicated oil) for the leeches.

While I did bump into a few hikers who swear by their rubber sport shoes, I’d strongly advice against them unless you have the agility of a prowling panther. (That said, even my trusty sole mates – pun absolutely intended – that survived both Mount Merapi and Pinatubo, could not survive its final adventure to Taman Negara).

The end of the road for the writer’s trekking shoes. The mud is just too much of a challenge.

When it rains, the leech-infested mud takes on a life of its own and, if you are vertically-challenged like this writer, ploughing through the orange-brown goo is treacherous indeed. The most crucial of all these must-brings is definitely the Minyak Cap Kapak – especially if you are squeamish about pulling slippery bloodsuckers off your limbs.

A few drops, and the icky vermin leaves the “buffet” – a trick Ajai shared with us. Even a little rain the night before will bring these slimy vampires out, so be warned: you are not alone, even if you can’t see them.

Getting to Taman Negara is relatively fuss-free, with quite a number of tour operators offering packages that include accommodation, food, activities and transportation.

While there are a few entry points, the most popular is from Kuala Tahan via the sleepy town of Jerantut and the Kuala Tembeling Jetty. The three-hour boat ride itself is an adventure through time as you cruise along the yellow teh tarik river, passing trees that wave their lush green foliage as you slowly doze off under the gaze of a warm tropical sun.

Arriving at Kuala Tahan, you will be greeted by a row of floating restaurants. After docking at the nearby jetty, you acquire your entry permit (RM1) and photography license (RM5) from the park headquarters, and you are good to go. – By CHRISTINA CHIN

Prices for each activity range from RM20 to RM40, although there are also combination packages you can sign up for.

Map: Taman Negara

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When I first visited Sabah’s famed Kinabatangan some 10 years ago, I was blown away by the wildlife there and the ease at which they could be seen.

During that trip, my list of wildlife sightings grew longer each day.

I found myself there again recently with the wife and was glad to see that the place has remained wild. Shortly after our boat entered the mighty Kinabatangan River, a crocodile came into view.

Our timing was right. The growing mid-day heat had drawn the reptiles out to bask in the warmth. The crocodile sat motionless on the sandy riverbank, as if posing for our cameras, and for a minute, we all wondered if it was a fake one placed there by the nature guides to give us a laugh.

Cruising the Kinabatangan River in search of wildlife.

But then the monster croc – it was almost 4m long – turned its head, glared at us for a second as if upset with the noisy intrusion, then slid into the water, leaving only a pair of eyes just discernible above the water line.

After that bout of excitement, all nine of us tourists onboard the boat dared not look away from the river, just in case we missed something. Sure enough, when the boat rounded a bend some minutes later, another crocodile came into view. This was followed by sightings of various birds.

An hour and a half after we left Sandakan, our boat reached Abai Jungle Lodge.

Set picturesquely beside the river and across from the Abai village, the lodge was established there to avoid the busier Sukau area that is further upstream, where most resorts in Kinabatangan are concentrated.

The location of the lodge could not be more perfect. It sat atop stilts and was built into the swampy forest. A raised boardwalk wound through the forest behind the chalets.

Walks along the boardwalk at Abai Jungle Lodge often yield sightings of orang utans, proboscis monkeys, pygmy squirrels and various insects.

The natural setting meant that there was wildlife practically at our doorstep. The tall trees enveloping the lodge drew all kinds of animals. Early one morning, we found an orang utan on a treetop just steps away from our chalet. And a pair of a pygmy squirrels – endemic to Borneo, they measure no more than 5cm long – scurried up and down a nearby tree.

River of life

Wildlife spotting at Kinabatangan is a leisurely affair and is best described as a river safari – you just sit on the boat and coast along the Kinabatangan and its tributaries.

A gentle mist hung over the river as our boat left the lodge in the early morning. Shortly after, our guide Erik pointed to a reddish blob on a tree top. It was an orang utan sitting in its nest of twigs and foliage. It was a young male, and he had cleverly arranged a crown of leaves to keep his head covered.

Our boat inched closer for a better look but the orang utan became bothered and turned away from us, covering his back with a leafy branch as if to hide himself. Getting the message, we promptly left him alone.

The dining deck of Abai Jungle Lodge is an inviting place at dusk.

We moved upriver and saw more crocodiles, proboscis monkeys and a vast array of birds: peregrine falcon, Wallace’s hawk-eagle, rufous-bellied hawk-eagle, black hornbill, dollarbird, cormorant, square-tailed drongo cuckoo and the common kingfisher.

When we returned to the lodge, a special “jungle breakfast” awaited us at a platform on the boardwalk. We tucked into fried noodles, eggs, sausages and toast amidst tall trees, entertained by the sounds of the forest. Bird warbles filled the air, and the occasional whoops of long-tailed macaques drifted down from the tree canopy above us. What a memorable experience!

The boardwalk soon became our favourite spot at the lodge. Strolls there were always rewarding: the rustle of leaves and a strong animal scent turned out to be a troop of proboscis monkeys, just metres away from the lodge. There were also various bugs and birds, as well as the greenish agamid lizard to excite us.

Night walks there were also fruitful. Our sharp-eyed boatman, Anuar, showed us a wolf spider, lantern bugs, a wild boar and a moon rat (a huge white rat). He said previous guests had seen the flying lemur, slow loris and even a clouded leopard there.

Kinabatangan is one of the best places to see wild pygmy elephants.

It was actually easier to see some birds at night, as they were perched, asleep. This was how we saw the blue flycatcher, oriental dwarf kingfisher (it had gorgeous pink, purple and blue plumage), racquet-tailed drongo and iora (it is puffed up like a ball when asleep) along the boardwalk.

One morning, we headed for Tasik Pitas, an oxbow lake, hoping to see wild elephants. We waited a while, but the jumbos did not show up. Nevertheless, there were plenty of kingfishers – the stork-billed, blue-eared and collared – to distract us. And there was something special about sipping hot coffee and nibbling on biscuits on a boat, in a placid lake. So, never mind that there were no elephants.

Like other lodge guests, we also did our part for the environment, by planting trees to reforest denuded land along the Kinabatangan. Tree seedlings were bought from villagers who grew them and who also took care of the reforestation site. This provided them with extra income. The resort also makes it a point to employ villagers, thereby supporting the local economy.

The tasty udang galah and marble goby which we were served for dinners were also purchased from the locals.

Chasing after jumbos

After two nights at Abai, we moved down to Sukau. Enroute, four storm storks circled over our boat. We were fortunate to see them; Erik told us that only around 100 individuals were left in the Lower Kinabatangan.

Like its sister lodge at Abai, the chalets at Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge are raised on stilts. The lush garden of flowering trees attract nectar-feeders such as colourful sunbirds. The wooden deck by the river looked inviting and would have been a great stakeout spot for hornbills – if we had the time.

This black-and-yellow broadbill was seen collecting twigs and vines to build a nest.

People have seen wild elephants near Bilit village, about an hour upstream, so pretty soon, we too headed that way. And sure enough, the pygmy elephants were making their way upstream along the riverbank. Erik said the herd was about 40-strong, and we managed to see about 10 elephants, including a few young ones.

Unconcerned by our presence, the jumbos continued chomping on the long grass, allowing everyone ample time to take pictures.

Having had our fill of elephants, we cruised down to Sungai Menanggul, the most popular tributary for wildlife spotting at Kinabatangan. Many proboscis monkeys gathered on the tree tops, their chosen spot to bed down for the night. An Oriental darter, rudely disturbed by our approaching boat, took off from its perch in a graceful swoop. We were thrilled as this bird is rarely seen in Peninsular Malaysia and yet in Kinabatangan, they are always sighted.

What we love most about Kinabatangan is that one does not have to don hiking boots or work up a sweat on muddy trails to see animals. Abai is still not on the main tourist trail but we found it to rival Sukau in terms of wildlife sightings.

We saw orang utans and proboscis monkeys on every river cruise. Also, crocodiles are more common at Abai since it is nearer to the river estuary. The saline condition also nurtures Sonneratia mangrove trees, on which fireflies congregate. So in Abai, you get to see fireflies lighting up the riverbank like Christmas trees at night.

A monster croc.

Even on the final day, as our boat headed back to Sandakan, there were still lots of animals to gawk at. Before leaving for our trip, we were worried that Kinabatangan might no longer be as wild as before, what with the expansion of agriculture schemes there.

Fortunately, our fears were laid to rest. When it comes to wildlife spotting, Kinabatangan certainly does not disappoint. But is that only because the animals have been pushed to slivers of riverine habitat, thus making them easier to be seen? – By CHOU K.S.

For more information on Abai Jungle Lodge and Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge, go to sitoursborneo.com or call 089-213 502 or e-mail info@sitoursborneo.com.

Map: Abai Jungle Lodge and Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge

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The Ningaloo – Shark Bay National Landscape is where searing red desert sands meet an aquamarine ocean. It’s an outstanding example of ongoing geological processes and major stages in the earth’s evolutionary history; and supports important habitats where threatened animal species survive.

One of only a few sites in the world to meet all four of the natural criteria for World Heritage listing, the massive 2.2 million hectare Shark Bay World Heritage area is the place to go if you want to see marine life in spectacular abundance.

Swimming with the world’s largest fish - the whale shark - is an experience you will never forget.

Bordered by Dirk Hartog, Bernier and Dorre Islands, Shark Bay is Australia’s largest bay. The majority of the bay’s warm, sheltered waters are less than 15 metres deep. Spectacular sea grass meadows cover over 4 000 square kilometres of the Bay, with the Wooramel Seagrass Bank being the largest, and having the most species of seagrass, in the world.

Here, one of the world’s largest populations of dugongs dwell; and singing humpback whales, ancient loggerhead turtles and friendly dolphins cruise the protected waters.

Of all Ningaloo -Shark Bay’s natural splendours, the remarkable dolphins of Monkey Mia are one of the most enchanting.

Almost every morning, dolphins visit the beach to interact with visitors. You can stand knee-deep on the water’s edge and help to feed them a small amount of fish under the supervision of park rangers. Visitors can also make an important contribution to scientific research and add to the knowledge about these threatened species by volunteering for four days to two weeks with the Monkey Mia dolphin program or Project Eden.

The warm and enclosed waters of Shark Bay are much saltier than the open ocean – another reason for two of the incredible wonders found here.

Hamelin Pool is a three and a half-billion-year-old step back in time to the dawn of life on Earth. They look like rocks but they’re not. Descendants of one of the first forms of life have created the stromatolites, and Hamelin Pool contains the most diverse and abundant examples in the world. They survive here because the extra salty environment discourages their predators.

In this astonishing place you’ll find a beach made entirely of sea shells. The billions of milky white shells are formed by a small mollusc, and like the stromatolites, its predators don’t like the salinity, so it thrives, creating a glittering spectacle.

But it’s not all about the water. In this landscape you’ll also find National Parks with spectacular ancient rock formations, abundant wildlife and a rich Indigenous history.

Of all Ningaloo -Shark Bay’s natural splendours, the remarkable dolphins of Monkey Mia are one of the most enchanting.

More than 130 archaeological sites provide evidence that three Australian Indigenous groups, the Malgana, Nhanda and Yingkarta, have lived in Ningaloo-Shark Bay during the past 30,000 years, depending on the sea and bush for their existence. An Indigenous cultural tour with an Aboriginal tour guide, learning about the land from their perspective, is a magical experience.

These tribes were probably the first Indigenous Australians to encounter Europeans – Shark Bay was the site of the first recorded landing by a European on Australian soil, when in 1616, Dutch explorer Dirk Hartog anchored at the island that now bears his name.

On Peron Peninsula you may catch a glimpse of the chuditch, Western Australia’s largest native carnivorous marsupial; or Australia’s famous bilby, the rabbit-eared bandicoot, which has all but replaced the Easter Bunny in the psyche of true-blue Aussies.

Laid-back Denham is Australia’s most westerly town, and a good base for visiting all the local attractions including nearby François Peron National Park. At Steep Point you can stand on the most westerly point of Australia, and see the magnificent Zuytdorp Cliffs that stretch for more than 150 kilometres along the coastline, while ospreys effortlessly shear off the sloping cliffs, patrolling in search of a meal. Join a sightseeing cruise or take a scenic flight for a birds-eye view of the whole panorama.

Francois Peron National Park, renowned for its dramatic red cliffs, pristine white-sand beaches, salt lakes and rare marsupial species, will reward those with four wheel drive vehicles and an adventurous spirit. The park is home to a bold experiment in environment and conservation – called Project Eden, which aims to reduce the impact of introduced animal species and return the park to its natural state.

Carnarvon, approximately mid-way between Monkey Mia and Coral Bay is an ideal base for exploring Mount Augustus and the Kennedy Ranges to the east. In Mount Augustus National Park stands the magnificent, Mount Augustus, known as Burringurrah by the local Wadjari Aboriginal people. A 50 km drive circuit of the park offers perspectives of the changing faces of the rock, from deep indigo to bright pink, orange, red and green, as well as caves and Aboriginal rock engravings. For hikers, the Kennedy Range National Park is the ultimate wilderness experience camping beneath the stars beside the stark sandstone cliffs.

North of Carnarvon, Ningaloo Reef starts at Red Bluff and extends to Exmouth. Ningaloo Reef is the largest fringing reef in the world and unlike many others; you can get to it by just stepping off the beach.

Every year in March, just after the full moon, its waters come alive as more than 200 species of coral spawn and millions of bright pink egg and sperm bundles float to the surface in a spectacular underwater dance.

Soon after, the whale sharks begin to arrive. Whale sharks are docile and feed mostly on krill. From around mid March until mid July whale shark tours operate out of Exmouth and from March until June from Coral Bay. Swimming with the world’s largest fish is an experience you will never forget.

At the northern gateway to the Ningaloo Marine Park, Exmouth has diving and snorkelling conditions that are rated among the world’s best. The Point Murat Navy Pier is rated as one of Australia’s top dive spots and is a must-do for all divers. If you prefer not to get wet, you can join a glass-bottom boat tour from Bundegi Beach or Tantabiddi and view the reef in comfort, or visit the Jurabi Turtle Centre and learn about Ningaloo’s endangered turtles.

Spend at least a day exploring the sweeping gorges, rugged peaks and amazing red rock canyons of the Cape Range National Park. Four wheel drive tours operate to some of the park’s most famous attractions including the Shothole and Charles Knife canyons. A five-kilometre bushwalking trail connects the two and offers some stunning outback scenery. Take a boat tour along Yardie Creek for the best chance of spotting a rare black-footed rock wallaby which live in the rock walls. At Mangrove Bay, the Observation Bird Hide will take you close to sea birds and waders. Birds also abound at Mandu Mandu Gorge, where there’s an excellent bush walking trail.

In Ningaloo-Shark Bay climatic conditions evolved over thousands of years have created a landscape of extraordinary contrasts between the ocean, land, earth and sky, making it worthy of a place on the list of Australia’s National Landscapes – unique environments which are recognised for their superlative natural and cultural experiences.

Article provided by Tourism Australia.

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Refreshing: Heliotropium commonly grown in Southern Europe as an ingredient for perfume is a refreshing sight.

Ironically called the Secret Garden, this natural attraction is not a secret at all.

Located on the rooftop of 1 Utama Shopping Centre’s new wing, this beautiful park is open to visitors to enjoy the lush tropical plants and many varieties of flowers planted there.

Touted as Bandar Utama City Centre’s unique attraction, and possibly one of the largest rooftop gardens in the country, it occupies an area of 30,000 sq feet.

The Secret Garden displays 500 types of rare and unusual plant species, which include cool-climate plants such as apples, rhododendrons, camellias and plums, accent plants like palms and giant aroids, and ornamental foliage plants such as begonias and crotons.

Water plants like the Madagascar tree arum and an extensive herb garden is also included in the Secret Garden.

Visitors have the opportunity to learn about tropical climbers, flowering plants and orchids as they walk through the walkways which are dotted by park benches.

Sprinklers from wooden arches rejuvenate the plants, as well as provide a cool atmosphere throughout the garden.  The plants are clearly labelled and categorised under 16 zones.

The Secret Garden is a successful result of intensive experiments, where plants are grown on a form of charcoal or granulated horticultural carbon.  The team behind this park continue to work on new ways to grow plants and showcase new species in creative displays.

Visitors can enjoy free admission to the park, open on weekends and on public holidays from 10am to 10pm.

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Loose layers of earth and stones crumbled down below as a group of hikers braved the slopes of Mount Sadong.

Requiring a great level of alertness, a wrong step could have one tumbling down the ravine. At certain points, the trail had them walking on the mountain ridges that were about a metre wide. Left and right, they were practically at the same level with the canopy of giant trees growing down below.

Not for the faint-hearted indeed, but for this group of hikers comprising schoolchildren and adults, it was a heritage journey to revisit the tracks of their forefathers who had once roamed these ridges.

Up with the birds: The view from above is just breathtaking.

Mount Sadong, whose terrain registered at approximately 201m above sea level, is a landmark for the Bidayuhs living in the Bukar area in Serian, some 70km from Kuching. It is known to possess the highest summit in the area, so much so that even a surveying team had once visited the peak to gather bearings and coordinates for the nearby mountains.

The summit or how locals termed it “Bung Sadong”, served as a trigonometrical station which is a fixed surveying station, used in geodetic surveying and other surveying projects in its vicinity.

An old trig point displaying the year 1993 and a not-so-visible carving of the bearings lies on the grassy plains, the only small open area on the summit. Folk called this equipment santing and the name soon caught on to describe the mountain’s summit.

The group of 16, including the writer, started ascending from Kampung Bunga at 7.10am using the trail next to the village brook. After 20 minutes passing pepper and cocoa gardens, the man-made trail ended and thus began navigation through the jungles.

Trees taller than commercial lots sprouted in every direction, captivating the hikers while the thorny wild rattan of the forest undergrowth, taunted their movement.

There were times when hikers had to go on all fours to climb steep mounds just to get to the other plain and the journey seemed endless.

The intricate canopy design from one of the giant trees on Mount Sadong.

The dense jungle foliage hampered the view from above, offering surprise peeks every now and then.

However, once you get to the ridge after a two-hour hike, the cool breeze offered a sense of serenity and comfort. From this point on, the terrain got steeper.

Along the way, the hikers passed burrows said to be nesting ground for wild boars and they even encountered deer tracks.

It is learnt then that the area was a hunting ground for the locals and it was best to create noises as we moved along as opposed to the norm of keeping silent when in the woods.

“It has been said that this mountain offered refuge to the ancestors of the Bukar region. The Bidayuhs have always looked to the mountains as a safe haven to get away from their enemies,” said Pastor Sim Nueng, who led the group on the hike recently.

An adventurer himself, Sim with the help of villagers Frank Aeng and Albert Maon, organised the hike which ended at 5pm, to expose the younger generation to the ancestral trail as well as to appreciate the sacrifices made by their forefathers.

He believed that by hiking through Sadong, it would give them the feel of what their ancestors went through when they looked to the mountain ranges for food as well as solace.

“Every mountain has a story to tell and by knowing more about Sadong, these children and young adults will know the value of their heritage. In those days, the villagers would transport their goods up these mountains when they hid from their enemies.

A thing of beauty: a splash of colour from the wild flowers on the mountain.

“It is said that they even constricted the necks of chickens so that they can move in silence. It didn’t choke the chicken but it kept it from clucking aloud. They had a way of doing this,” explained Sim.

According to Frank, a similar incident which took place at Bung Bratak in Bau, also occurred here one time ago.

He said just like the Bidayuhs in Bau, the people in the Bukar area also used the same “art of war” to defeat their enemies who were rebels from upriver.

These rebels would kidnap young women and children and raid the villages of its paddy stock and traditional gongs and jars, among other things.

However, Frank said this took place on a connecting mountain range called “Mawang Sadong”.

Roughing it out: Hikers making their way through the trees.

He said villagers would flee to the mountain so it was easy for them to see the enemies coming.

He said they would also use these slopes and terrains to their advantage by rolling logs and boulders down on their enemies.

In the years to come, the mountain would also be known as a notorious hideout for the communists during the Emergency.

Frank said it is believed that not even the villages around these mountain ranges knew of the hideout.

“There are also unmarked graves of communists who died in battles on these ranges,” he added.

Fast forward to the present time, Sim said hardly anyone came up to santing anymore except hunters.

Apart from making the young generation aware of the history of the mountain ranges, the hike also promoted a healthy and active lifestyle by enjoying the great outdoors.

Whereas on the spiritual part, Sim, who is with the Seventh-Day Adventist Church, said that such trials and tribulations faced in the hike were likened to what people faced in their daily lives.

“Through this expedition, teamwork is displayed. And there were times when the journey seemed long and tough but we managed to finish it because we had hope and faith. This is what we must have in our lives,” he added. – By VANES DEVINDRAN

Map: Mount Sadong, Sarawak

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The eco-tourism project, estimated to cost over RM3mil, will be undertaken in two phases and is expected to be completed in 10 months.

Phase one consists of renovation of buildings and the construction of the nature trail and canopy walk.

The second phase is to complete the nature trail and build the ‘heli-pad plateau’ rest area, giant swings and remaining rest areas.

Eco-tourism consultant Frederick Walker said the project would leverage on the hill’s heritage and the use of green materials for construction.

Access to forest: An artist’s impression of the canopy walk which will be constructed in a zigzag fashion.

The ‘heli-pad plateau’ is located halfway along the nature trail and will be designed with an English-style botanic garden concept. There will be creeks and water features with benches and sitting areas.

“Water will be re-circulated from the hill stream,” he said.

Other features include solar-powered lighting and interactive informative signage.

He said the existing canopy walk located along Summit Road would be dismantled with the component parts reused.

He said flora indigenous to the hill would be replanted where soil erosion had occurred.

“There is already an existing path so there won’t be any massive clearing or tree cutting for the nature trail,” he said.

Cockrell said ticket prices had yet to be determined but assured the public that it would be affordable especially for locals. – By CHRISTINA CHIN

Map: Penang Hill

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Handlines or Abu Kong-Kong are the oldest form of fishing tools that are still used by many anglers.

It is the simplest form of fishing — just bare hands, line and a spool that holds it all together.

Handlining has been there for ages and despite the emergence of modern rods and reels to aid fishing, this form of angling is still common and popular among local anglers. It is not only cheap but also easy and simple to use.

Good stuff: An angler using a handline to catch squid.

I am sure many fisho would remember how they started fishing using this classic Abu Kong-Kong, a local name for handlines which was coined from Abu, a popular brand of a Swedish reels, while Kong-Kong derives from the Hokkien word for empty can or tin.

For many of us who grew up to love fishing, I am sure one way or the other many of us have had a go with this type of fishing method.

As a child, I used 20 or 30-pound monofilament line, rolled it onto an empty Milo tin, and used spark plugs, which were available from nearby motorcycle repair shops, as sinkers to fish.

I remember how my dad taught me to cast the line using the helicopter method, where a clock-wise overhead or side spinning technique is required in lobbing the rig out into the water once it picks up enough velocity to “shoot” the line out.

Many of us would be amazed what a handline can really do and how multiple techniques could be applied to catch different species using this type of fishing method.

One could jig in mid-water by moving up and down and a series of short movements or a fast and short snapping technique to catch species like tengiri (mackerel) and barracuda using lures or spoons. This technique is popular among fishermen in the east coast.

One could also do bottom fishing, which is another popular angling technique.

This is the simplest form of fishing, where you just drop the line from the boat and wait for the fish to take the bait.

This technique can be used to catch many different species, especially the bottom dwellers like jenahak (golden spanner), kerisik (sharptooth jobfish) and even grouper. Handlines could also be used to catch squid.

It can also be attached to the Apollo (Paternoster) rig to catch pelagic fish like sardines, selar (scad) and kembong (Indian mackerel), which could also be used as bait.

One can also apply the drifting technique using a handline.

But an angler has to remember that when using handlines, there is a need to use thicker or heavier poundage to work on. The logic in having a thicker line is to ensure that it does not cut the fingers as one retrieve the line back. Thin lines can easily cause injuries to the hand when the fish retreats deeper into the water.

Thicker lines are also harder to get entangled as one reels in and drops the line on the deck.

I still love handline and would still use this method every now and then or when fishing in not so deep water.

A 120-pound line, with 200 metres of line, spooled to a plastic handline reel is always in my tackle bag. I also use a handline as a back up should anything go wrong with my other fishing equipment.

Big catch: a mackerel reeled in using a handline.

Despite all the gears and gadgets that I have for modern fishing, I still enjoy handlining. It gives a direct feel when the fish nibbles the bait. The sensitivity and direct contact with the fingers, allows a fisho to “feel” what is going on at the end of the line.

Handlining definitely gives an extra advantage in bagging the catch compared with the rod and reel. It has its own advantages if one knows how to handle the handline.

Handline also allows a fisho to read the seabed and know their fishing ground by feel. Knowing the seabed allows one to determine the species they are aiming at and the correct type of bait to use.

For example, a fisho can tell if the seabed is muddy, the playground for jenahak, if the tug on the line indicates that it soft and sticky when the sinker dropped to the bottom.

Hard and firm knocks indicate that the seabed is rocky or covered with corals.

On the other hand, a soft feeling on the line as the sinker lands on the seabed reveals that it is sandy.

Being able to feel and know the ground would be an added advantage to any fisho in anticipating the catch and striking chances.

Handlining is a must for any angler, especially newbies. It can be fun and addictive!

Happy fishing! – By EDDIE CHUA

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In recent times, Ayurvedic spas and clinics have become a popular choice among people.

The alternative traditional medicine from India, run by vaidyas or physicians, goes back to the Vedic period, said to be around 1700 to 1100BC. While the spas aim at providing relaxation and rejuvenation, the clinics are about treating its patients.

One of the more established Ayurvedic centres in the Klang Valley is Ayur Centre in Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

The centre, which started in 2000, was the brainchild of Tan Sri Gnanalingam, who wanted to make Ayurvedic treatment available in Malaysia.

Beauty therapy: The staff at Ayur-V are trained before they can handle any client or patient.

Chief Ayurvedic physician vaidya C.D. Siby said opening such a centre was not easy because of the scepticism in Malaysia at the time.

Being an almost unknown alternative medicine, which was only understood by the Indian community, getting all the requirements right was a long but fruitful journey.

Ayur Centre presently sees many patients with arthritis, musculoskeletal disorders, digestive, respiratory and gynaecological problems.

There are seven technical staff, including one doctor at the centre.

“The key to success is the authenticity of the treatment. What you get here is what you would get in India in terms of quality and products,” said Siby.

“It was tough in the beginning because it wasn’t easy to make people understand the products as we needed scientific authentication, so a lot of documentation was needed.

“Our doctor has qualifications from a medical university in India and we are scrutinised by the Ministry of Health. In terms of licensing from the local council, they had never come across anything like this before but now they understand.”

According to Siby, awareness is the key.

“We had a lot of discussions, distributing information and slowly it grew popular through word of mouth. When we first started, we had 80% Indian patients but now almost 50% of our patients are of other races,” he said.

He added that, over the past 12 years, the expansion of the business had been steady and promising, with about 10% to 20% growth every year.

“We had 500 patients in the beginning, but at present we have about 13,000 people coming to our centre in Petaling Jaya and another 5,000 to our centre in Seremban.

“The increase in patients seeking Ayurvedic treatments is a reflection of our growth potential. We even have people coming from Japan, Switzerland and Australia,” he said, adding they rarely refer their patients to India, as the treatments can be done locally.

When asked about more spas and beauty related Ayurvedic treatments coming into the picture, Siby said this is an extension or evolution catering to the rejuvenating process.

“I believe that spas have a role to play too because their focus could be on hair, face and skin. Among our patients only a tiny number ask for facial or hair care.

“Spas should ultimately provide Ayurveda treatments as it is a niche industry, thus competition among them should be healthy. The potential of the Ayurvedic business to grow is very good,” he said.

Meanwhile, Ayur-V managing director Kalavathy Rasalingam, who runs three spas in Gombak and Seremban said Ayurveda is the solution for a healthy life.

The Ayurvedic hair and beauty care centre has been around for five years offering traditional Ayurvedic relaxation (Shirodara), hot pouch, oil relaxation, ayur sauna, sandal scrub, hair loss, pedicure and facial treatments.

Health treatment: At least two therapists from Ayur Centre are assigned to one patient.

According to Kalavathy, herbal-based products are something people seek out as the last solution. However with awareness, more people are opting to seek alternative treatments from the beginning.

She said the industry has been very well received among non-Indians who grasp the concept of Ayurveda.

Kalavathy, who studied in Chennai and Enarkulam, India, began her journey out of passion before turning it into a business.

“About 70% of our clients are Malays while only 20% are Indians. This is perhaps because they see it as unique and attractive.

“It is a niche market, which you don’t get everywhere, so, gradually, the number of customers increased for us. You learn every year and with different people coming in wanting different needs. The idea is not to make it a high-end service but rather a moderately priced one because we cater to a spectrum of people.

“We advertise, give out vouchers, discounts and provide packages as well as distribute flyers. We have seen a 100% growth with plans to open more centres within the Klang Valley,” she said, adding there has even been an offer to open shop in a prominent hotel.

Kalavathy explained that it is not easy to sustain any business, adding that determination was the core ingredient of her success.

“When you open a niche business, location is important because you want people who wouldn’t mind paying the money for their treatments. It has been an uphill task for us to build the brand but because Ayurveda is the essence of our business, we can see more people coming to such spas.

“We have beauticians and we train our staff for at least six months before they are considered proficient. There is a drawback, however, due to the lack of beauticians in Malaysia. If we get one that is good, we are lucky. The government does not allow us to bring beauticians from India.

“Almost 80% of the products we use are from India but some leaves are available locally. Our mask and scrubs are homemade using herbal products,” she said.

Ayur Centre is located at No.10 Jalan Dato Abu Bakar, Petaling Jaya, Tel:03-7954 2899 or log on to www.ayurcentre.com.

Ayur-V is located at No 1-29, Jalan Sg 1, Prima Sri Gombak, Batu Caves, Selayang, Tel: 03-6187 6969/ 010- 4244 299 or log on to www.ayurvherbal.com. – By FAZLEENA AZIZ, Photos by NORAFIFI EHSAN and AZLINA ABDULLAH

Map: Ayur Centre, PJ and Ayur-V, KL

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